Cruising in Oceania

/ Ben Starling

Waterfalls at Vanuatu
The last Spring lecture at Limehouse last night… Sigh. 
Henry and Kiki Capleton presented some highlights from their travels through Oceania: notes on the Palmerston Atoll, the Hobart ‘Round Tasmania’ Rally and some islands around Vanuatu.
A inspiring presentation with spectacular photography. We left knowing even more powerfully why sailing to distant locations is so unique. 
It’s not just about loving sailing and being on the water. It’s that there are some places you just can’t get to without your own boat.
And that makes the experiences once you are there that much more incredible. Few people get to see such untouched beauty. Their experiences and photos really drove that home.
How they got sailing
  • had only done 1300nm on passages
  • had passed RYA Coastal and Day Skipper courses
  • bought a Contest 44, their first boat
  • did a few shakedowns cruises from New England to Bermuda with experienced friends on their boat
  • and off they went…
How they got to the Pacific
  • via the Panama Canal
  • used one of the cheaper agents, cost $900 ($600 to the agent and $300 to the authorities)
  • had to wait 9 days to get a place to get through
  • each boat needs 4 ‘line handlers’
  • usual custom is to practice by helping someone else go through
  • then you return to your boat when your ‘place’ comes up and take on two newbies who in turn are practicing to take their own boat through later…
Palmerston Atoll 

  • only true atoll in the Cook’s group
  • population: about 90 – all descended from an English ship’s carpenter who settled there in Victorian times with his 3 Polynesian wives
  • they collect rainwater, and fish and grow copra both of which they trade
  • when you arrive:
    • you send ahead a VHF message
    • then you are met by one of the family in a boat who will show you your mooring spot
    • they invite you for dinner and maybe some entertainment (singing, dancing) the next night
  • in return, visitors exchange whatever skills they have (carpentry, engineering, medical etc) or give supplies
Tasmania
  • they joined the Hobart Rally
  • spectacular highlights:
    • MacQuarie Harbour
    • Strahan
    • Port Davey
    • Bathurst Harbour
    • D’Entrecasteaux Channel
    • Wineglass Bay!

Islands around Vanuatu

  • waterfall bays
  • exchanged t-shirts for fresh fruit and vegetables
  • t-shirts are also appreciated as thank you gifts
  • met many chiefs
  • were invited to attend church
  • attended much dancing which involved a ‘thumping’ style in grass skirts with rattles tied around the ankles
  • saw water music where women stood waist high in water and slapped it to make different tones and so create the music – wow!
I would use the word ‘moving’ to describe this presentation. We certainly left totally psyched to notch it up and throw ourselves back into the cruising studies, prep and downsizing with renewed vigor. 

Today I attack the biggest pile (huge) of the Can Opener’s papers to organise and file. Haiiiiiiiii-yaah!



–Captain Cat

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

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