Dream Boat Criteria Revised

The First Mate and I have recently revised our criteria for the design of the yacht of our dreams. What could possibly have wrought such a seismic shift?

We revised our beam requirements (see below) after reading two noteworthy books by John Vigor: Twenty Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere and The Seaworthy Offshore Sailboat.  
Till we actually buy it, our criteria list is always subject to change. We’ll probably change it and add to it several more times as we continue to research and learn about offshore yacht design.
John argues that a narrow beam is a critical component of seaworthiness: boats right themselves more easily after a knockdown if they are relatively long and narrow.
Good enough for us. 
Soooo, our revised criteria are as follows…
 
Key Criteria

Our yacht should be:
  1. 30 feet LOA (or somewhere between 27 ~ 32 feet) for
    • lower acquisition costs, lower running costs and good for solo handling
  2. specifically designed for blue water travel 
    • with a track record of durability and storm safety
    • narrow beam* – for seaworthiness (boats right themselves more easily after a knockdown if they are relatively long and narrow)
    • full keel
    • heavy displacement
    • good tankage included in the original design and build
  3. a design that remains popular over time that
    • has a large active fleet
    • holds its value – to maximize costs recouped upon resale

  

What other critical design criteria for a blue water yacht should we add to the list?  
Send an email with recommendations to The Cruising Kitty !

–Captain Cat


(transcribed by the Can Opener) 

Coastal Skipper Training

Captains’ Log
Stardate: 2012224
Gloomy days. Just as we approach the much anticipated acceleration point of our Get Cruising Now Plan… I learn of proof beyond doubt that the First Mate has lost all marbles. 

Turns out this cruising crew the Can Opener has been invited to join – they specifically want to practice Crew Over Board training and anchoring… over and over and over again.. for days

The Can Opener is practically skipping with joy – when he should be filleting my Sunday night’s prime haddock!

Granted this will be the perfect chance to prep him for the RYA Coastal Skipper exam that I have decreed he will get this year. 

And also granted that being invited to test on the boat with a familiar crew is a boon. Not only will he be familiar with the boat and crew before the test – but it will be quite cost effective. But honestly – COB drills??  

(That’s not Crew Over Board that’s Cat Over Board drills, Furrball. We can skip this part if you reeeeeeally want us to…) 

Hmm… But……with all this training going on… how will the Can Opener find time to stand over me waving palm fronds as I snooze? (‘Twas never likely, my friend…) 

How will he eke out sufficient time to dust my orb, polish my feather cap and rinse my frillies? (I’ll do it before we go out.)

Ah. Hmm… okay. If you erect a properly sized yoga platform across the foredeck – it’s a done deal. 

(Right-ho, Captain. I’m on it.)




–Captain Cat 
(transcribed by the Can Opener)
 

20 Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere – Book Review

Links below at bottom of post
Book the Captain just finished snoozing on:   
20 Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere, by John Vigor   
 
 
Is it possible to find small boats that can sail around the world? What does ocean ‘seaworthiness’ really mean?
Loved this book. Loved it! Could have happily snoozed on it all week. But it’s short enough that I powernapped through it in a single day.
John Vigor, former managing editor of Sea magazine, evaluates and compares the seaworthiness of 20 of the most tried, tested and beloved small yacht designs available. The boats range from 20 to 32 feet in length. 
Any one of these designs would be a solid choice to cross an ocean in. John lays out his analyses and evaluations clearly. Each design is compared to the ideal of seaworthy and also compared to (ranked against) each other.
Vigor points out aspects of seaworthiness as he describes each boat and evaluates them. However, I would have liked a clear introduction defining ‘seaworthy’ independently at the start of the book.
Fortunately, the Can Opener and I also invested in The Seaworthy Offshore Boat, by John Vigor. He defines here seaworthy in the first chapter on pages 2 and 3.
Seaworthy

Ocean crossing boat designs should have:

  • sturdier construction
  • stronger spars and rigging
  • more storage
  • less need for weather helm
  • seakindliness
  • ability to manoeuvre
  • habiltability

and

  • ability to right itself  quickly from a 180 knockdown.

Some bias 
  • There’s a bias in his group ranking scheme towards the larger boats which John readily admits to. It’s for good reason – a longer waterline means it takes a bigger wave to roll the boat. 
  • There also seems to be a bias towards North American designed boats. I expected a few Scandinavian (and possibly French) yacht designs to be included in the group. The closest were US-designed yachts that were ‘descendants’ of the Folkboat, for example.
Conclusion 
  • We’re going to add in the Nicolson 31 and the Southern Cross 31 to our long list ofboat designs to consider for ourselves. 
  • This book was a good investment. The criteria for seaworthiness were clearly illustrated and analysed as he considered each design. 
–Captain Cat 
(transcribed by the Can Opener) 
Book Reviews 

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Sailing Boots – Dubarry or not?

The gold standard…

 

What to look for 
‘Boots – breathable, if you can afford them. Dubarry is the gold standard, (but) I wear Sperry Fathom’s, they have kept my feet dry from both sides.’

    – Jackdale, replying to ’Foul weather gear – clueless as what to buy’ post, Sailnet 

And of course boots should be… 

  • big enough for an extra pair of socks
  • have traction
  • non-marking soles
  • NOT be attached to foul weather pants (if you go overboard, the boots and pants will fill with sea water and make it a LOT more difficult to pull you back on board).

Usage 

  • If you’re looking at daysailing only, simple rubber sailing boots (eg Gill) might make the most sense.
  • But if you’re aiming for ocean cruising or night sailing, best to invest in something that will keep you toasty warm and dry. Warm and dry means focused and healthy in the long run. Nothing worse than freezing feet sloshing in your boots – no good has ever come of it…

How much should you spend? 
‘Imagine that you are cold and wet at night and still have hours to go. (Then) ask yourself then how much you would spend to be warm and dry. My advice is buy the best gear you can afford.’
   – VGWS1, replying to ’Foul weather gear – clueless as what to buy’ post, Sailnet

Taking care of your boots 
‘I would suggest, that if you are buying boots for sailing that you don’t want to wear them walking around town. Your foot wear for the boat should be reserved for the boat. Walking around the street with them will only wear them out faster and make you loose traction.’
   – Sailortjk1, replying to ‘Marine Rubber Boots’ post, Sailnet 

Sample Pricing 
These are the prices* I could find today at the websites of major chandleries on each side of the pond. This is just a baseline price trawl for rough budget estimating purposes. Here we go… 

Some Ballpark Price Checks in the USA 

westmarine.com 

  • Dubarry Ultima Stretch Boots $399.00 (£255)
  • Dubarry Men’s Newport Boots $329.00 (£210)
  • Helly Hansen Men’s Helly Welly Sailing Boots $199.99 (£128)
  • Gill Men’s Tall Yachting Boots $79.95 (£51)
  • Sperry Topsider Women’s Rain Cloud Boots $74.99 (£48)
  • West Marine Tall Cruising Boots $64.99 (£42)
  • West Marine Short Cruising Boots $59.99 (£38)
  • Gill Short Performance Sailing Boots $59.95 (£38)

Defender.com 

  • Gill Men’s Kevlar Boat Boots $295.00 (£188)
  • Gill Men’s Leather Sailing Boots $269.00 (£172)
  • Sperry Foul Weather Boat Boot $79.99 (£51)
  • Gill Tall Yachting Boot $79.95 (£51)
  • Gill Short Cruising Boat Boot $59.95 (£38)

BoatersWorld.com 

  • Musto HPX Ocean Gore-Tex Black Boot $418.94 (£268)
  • Gill Tall Yachting Graphite Boots $97.94 (£63)
  • Gill Short Yachting Boot $78.89 (£50)

Some Ballpark Price Checks in the UK 

sailingclothingstore.co.uk 

  • Dubarry Ultima Boots £239.95 ($376)
  • Henri Lloyd Shadow Boot £169.95 ($266)
  • Sebago Marine Squall Sailing Boot £149.95 ($234)
  • Gill Tall Yachting Boot £49.95 ($78)
  • Gill Short Cruising Boot £32.95 ($52)

force4.co.uk 

  • Dubarry Ultima Sailing Boot £239.95 ($376)
  • Gill Breathable Leather Boots £189.95 ($297)
  • Gill Breathable Kevlar & Leather Boots £189.95 ($297)
  • Quayside Biscay Sailing Yacht Boot in Navy/Brown £119.95 ($188)
  • Quayside Ocean Sailing Boots £89.95 ($141)
  • Gill Tall Yachting Boot £49.95 ($78)
  • Musto Classic (Full Length) Boot £39.95 ($63)
  • Gill Short Cruising Boot £37.95 ($59)

marinesuperstore.com 

  • Dubarry Ultima Gore-Tex Stretch £239.95 ($376)
  • Dubarry Newport Boots £169.95 ($266)
  • Dubarry Fastnet Gore-Tex Boots £149.95 ($235)
  • Henri Lloyd Shadow Boot £129.95 ($203)
  • Quayside Biscay Sailing Boots £99.95 ($157)
  • Gil Tall Boot £44.95 ($70)
  • Gill Short Boot £29.95 ($47)

oceanleisure.co.uk 

  • Dubarry Ultima Boots £239.00 ($374)
  • Dubarry Gore-Tex Newport Deck Boots £195.00 ($305)
  • Henri Lloyd Ocean Extreme Boots £195.00 ($305)
  • Sebago Marine Squall Men’s £160.00 ($250)
  • Gill Tall Yachting Boots £50.00 ($78)
  • Henri Lloyd Deck Boot £45.00 ($70)
  • Gill Short Cruising Boots £33.00 ($52)

Observations 

Pricing 
Not much to choose between US and UK prices. $5 here or £5 there is not enough to cross an ocean for. 

Sizes 
Lots of choice in boots for men on both sides of the pond. Nearly nothing in women’s sizes in the US that’s designed for cruising or ocean. And there’s no cat-sized boots anywhere. 

No wonder so many wives refuse to cruise. There’s no equipment for them. Nothing worse than freezing and sliding around on a boat. At best it’s nasty. At worst, it can get you killed. 

The UK seems to stock more (as in any choice at all) in women’s sizes. The sailingclothingstore.co.ukat Cowes is a good place to start. 

Dubarry or not dubarry, that is the question… 
Checking out the forums (sailnet, cruisers forum, cruiser log), it looks like anyone who didn’t buy Dubarrys is adamant that they get along just fine without. 

And anyone who did buy them claims to be ecstatic that they did. Guess we’ll just have to do in-the-shop research next and see how it goes… 

Next steps 
So. We’re off to take the Can Opener shopping, to put some good boots on his feet and let him take ‘em for a spin. 

From the online research above, I’m guessing that we’ll probably go with some Sebago Squalls or the Dubarry Fastnet boots – both about £150 ($235). But fit is all-important. 

We’ll update the outcome is another post. Who knows? I might feel generous that day… Naaahh. 

What kind of deck boots do you have? How’re they holding up? Would you buy this brand/model again? 

–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener) 

Update: I went with the Dubarry Altimas in the end. The Can Opener’s a good bloke and I decided he deserves warm feet. 

* Since sales tax varies by state in the US (from 0% to 7.25%), sales taxes for the US prices are not included. However, for the UK prices, VAT is included already in the price. (VAT in the UK is 20%. But if you buy in the UK and then export to your country of residence, you can claim this back.) 

Safety Gear 
Next: Carrying Self-Inflating Life Jackets on Planes
Previously: Life Jackets – How Much Does Safety Cost?

Self Sufficient Sailor – Reviewed

links below at bottom of post

 

Book Captain Cat just finished snoozing on: 
Self Sufficient Sailor, by Lin and Larry Pardey 

A big thumbs up (metaphorically speaking) on yet another Pardey classic. The key themes in this must-have for the sea library are: 

Keeping costs down 
The Pardeys are famous for economical cruising and once again they do not disappoint. For example, they discuss:

  • interesting advice on how to hitchhike on boats to gain sea miles and experience. If this is for you, there is some solid advice here on how to do it
  • what kind of careers/jobs are most compatible with cruising based on what they have done and what they have seen others successfully doing
  • the usefulness of keeping your boat under 30 feet to get out cruising earlier and stay out there longer. Can’t remember where the Can Opener got this 30 foot and under idea, but this is probably it (he’s read it before).

They also keep costs down by… 

…being prepared 
For squalls, emergencies, fire, lightning, repairs and guests. In no particular order. 

…keeping it simple 
If you can’t repair it, maybe it shouldn’t be on board. 
–Lin and Larry Pardey 

Yep, these guys are hard-core. They cruise without an engine, electricity or flush toilet. And they probably could repair all of the above anyway. 

They also tell you about a few simpler system substitutes they have seen successfully used if this is the above is too intense for you. 

Keep it fun and safe for everyone on board 
All sensible recommendations and discussions here:

  • Everyone should be able to sail the boat.
  • All equipment should be designed so that the weakest member of the crew can operate/use/carry it.
  • Share tasks and do not stick one crew with all the crappy jobs.

The sort of things you’d think were kind of obvious. Apparently not. 

This section is written with the assumption that the wife will be the one getting stuck with the short end of the stick. Seems a bit like a 1950s labour division, and yet it seems like this is a surprisingly common scenario. 

Jimmy Cornell’s World Cruising Survey demographics show the greatest number of cruisers are in their 50’s, 60’s and beyond. So maybe this helps explain why it happens too often. 

The Pardeys note that boats cruise longer, more safely and happily when everyone is well trained and individually confident in their own abilities to do all the tasks needed for their own boat. 

The tough stuff of cruising 
Lest you begin to think that a life of Spartan simplicity and ‘bucket and chuck it’ toilets is one big holiday, the Self Sufficient Sailor finishes with direct and sensible discussions on guns, pirates, security and worse, how to get laundry done on a boat. 

Things you need to consider and to make well informed decisions about before going cruising. 

Conclusion 
Self Sufficient Sailor? Loved it. Nuff said. 

Any other books you would recommend for cruising? I am researching for the next round of additions to our sea library…

–Captain Cat
(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Other Book Reviews

Next: Maiden Voyage – Reviewed 
Previously: Capable Cruiser



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Morris Yacht Designs & Morris 34

We could only find a vid for the Morris 36. Mostly shows the boat in action sailing. 
At about 1:07~ you get some close ups of winches, fittings etc. Unfortunately, no interior views shown.

Morris Yachts – Highlights

Built very very well… 
Every boat built by Morris is a work of art!’ — John Neal of Mahina Expeditions. 

The shortest Ocean Series design that the Morris yard is currently offering is the Morris 34. The First Mate and I were aiming for circa 30 foot designs as he’ll be solo sailing most of the time – but these boats are so gorgeous we can’t resist taking a peek. 

The Morris 34 was Best Overall Boat of the Year for 1998 at the Annapolis Boat Show so we are not alone in our admiration it seems. 

Not that many built… 
The Morris site notes the Morris Annie 29 design was built 1980~ and only 16 were built. The Linda 28 design is meant to be similar – again only 16 were built. But for Morris, these seem to be long runs. 

More recently… production numbers have increased quite a bit, but I doubt Morris has yet built its 300th boat. If so, that boat would have been built fairly recently.’ – Richard Reinhart, Morris Yachts post, Sailnet 

We had the Morris Annie in our sights, but I think finding one of these on the market will be more than a little tough. 

Hard to find present/past owners’ opinions online… 
Since not so many Morris boats have been made, not so many owners (or past owners) are around. Can’t seem to find too many specific comments on specific Morris boats in sailing forums (just general comments on the Morris yard and their great production standards and after service). 

Ditto can’t find an owners’ association or any sail mag reviews on the shorter Morris designs (though reviews for the Morris 45 and 52 can be seen at Cruising World online). 

But there are some useful comments online… 
So for what it’s worth, here are the highlights of the few the bits we’ve found online, focusing mostly on the Morris 34… 

Pluses 

  • cockpit is set up for either tiller or wheel steering* (tiller is the way we’re planning to go – simple systems mean fewer breakdowns and also the auto-helm will be easier to attach)
  • interiors can be customized* (doesn’t mean much to us who will be buying used, but may appeal to others…)
  • ‘Morris Yachts is well known for building sailboats that border on floating works of art.’ – bluewaterboats.org, Morris Linda 28 page
  • ‘(Morris) don’t wait until a vessel is in the new owners hands to see if there are problems. They look for problems before the vessel is delivered.’ –JHJensen, Marine Educator/Surveyor, Morris Yachts post, Sailnet 

Minuses

  • ‘Asking prices on the Morris 36s seem to have been rising pretty steadily for the last 5 or so years.’ – Richard Reinhart, Morris Yachts post, Sailnet
  • (Seems to be true for Morris boats in general. Not so great if you are buying; quite nice if you are selling…)

Specs for the Morris 34* 
LOA:             33’9″ 
LWL:             26’1″ 
Beam: 10’5″ 
Draft (Scheel Keel): 4’3″ 
Displacement: 11,400 lbs 
vs 
Bavaria 34, 12 yrs old: $89,804 
Contour 34, 12 yrs old: $125,000 
Hallberg Rassy 34, 12 yrs old: $182,676 

 

Sample Pricing for the Morris 34** 
Morris 34, 7 yrs old: $345,000 
vs 
Beneteau 34, 7 yrs old: $97,530 
Jeanneau 34, 7 yrs old: $108,367 
Catalina 34, 7 yrs old: $114,900 

Morris 34, 12 yrs old: $235,000 
vs 
Bavaria 34, 12 yrs old: $89,804 
Contour 34, 12 yrs old: $125,000 
Hallberg Rassy 34, 12 yrs old: $182,676 

Criteria Match 

<span lang="EN-GB" style="font

Decision 
We’d love to have a Morris and will definitely keep our eyes open for examples to take a look at during our research (more likely to be found in the US though). We’re hoping we come across a Morris Annie 29 or a Linda 28. 

However, the Morris 34 looks awfully pricey for our first boat. We’d like to make mistakes and learn on something a little more moderate when we outfit for long distance the first time.WOW, they are pricey. Though beautiful. Ouch.

Decision 
We’d love to have a Morris and will definitely keep our eyes open for examples to take a look at during our research (more likely to be found in the US though). We’re hoping we come across a Morris Annie 29 or a Linda 28. 

However, the Morris 34 looks awfully pricey for our first boat. We’d like to make mistakes and learn on something a little more moderate when we outfit for long distance the first time. 

For now, for us, the Morris 34 doesn’t make the short list. 

But we’ll keep it on the long list for future reference. We are confident there will be more than one boat in our long term future. 

Have you ever sailed or owned one of these boats? 
What do you think? Would you buy this boat (or buy it again)? 

–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener) 

*  Data taken from http://www.morrisyachts.com/Morris-34 
** Sample data taken from yachtworld.com

Yacht Designs
Next: Westsail 28 & 32
Previously: What about a Catamaran?

Why Yacht Surveys Save Money

Tips on Surveying Boats 
from the 2nd half of the Cruising Association lecture 

Here are our notes from the second half of the lecture with Paul Stevens on: SurveyingYachts and Small Craft at the Cruising Association last week. 

The first half of Paul’s lecture covered a serious issue he has helped to build awareness for recently: the use of brass skin fittings below the waterline in salt water-sailed yachts – and why this is a very bad idea. 

The second half of the lecture covered some general tips on surveying. In one short hour, this is what we covered… 

Keel, Rudder and Hull 

  • Look for weeping, staining on the keel
  • Look for ‘tide mark’ inside the bilges from keel staining
  • Look at the boat in slings to see the keel ‘in tension’. Is there light visible between the hull and the keel where it joins the hull? Yikes!
  • Look at the hull surface when the sun is low in the sky. This will throw the bottom into relief and show up imperfections
  • Check for crazing where the skeg is attached
  • Hammer tap test over hull to find voids in laminate (ie. if delamination has occurred). If you hear a change in sound as you tap, you will notice immediately. It sounds like rotten wood
  • Scrape off anti-fouling to see if there is blistering – you always have to do this, no excuses
  • Test the rudder – can you move it relative to its stalk? Is it loose?
  • What is the propeller made of? Very often they are made of manganese bronze – this means brass! Avoid. 

  

Inside and On the Boat 
  • Look for crazing at the cockpit joins, roof joins etc.
  • Tap around bulkhead. If the chainplates are leaking, then the bulkheads might be rotten
  • Do hatches close properly?
  • Check for corrosion at stanchion bases – it’s very common to have stainless steel stanchions in an aluminum base. Different metals together accelerate corrosion
  • At rigging attachment points, sealing plates should be removed, retightened and resealed once a year!
  • Take a winch handle with you to check that winches move in 2 directions and are not seized
  • Does boat conform to light regulations? Are all the lights working?
  • Does boat conform to bilge pump regulations? Check pump is working. MCA Code of Practice tells what number and type of bilge pump is required for each size of boat. These are sensible recommendations

Engine

  • Look in ‘rocker’ box. Is the oil all creamy?
  • Do a dip stick check
  • Check the coolant. How clean is it?

How do you know if your yacht surveyor is qualified?
You don’t. This is an unregulated industry.

How can I tip the odds in my favour when looking for a good yacht surveyor?

  • Ask friends for recommendations
  • Ask people at your boat club for recommendations
  • Ask your cruising association for recommendations
  • Don’t use the yacht surveyor the yacht broker suggests you use
  • In the UK, you can check to see if they are members of the Yacht Designers and Surveyors Association (YDSA) and/or British Marine Surveyors Europe (BMSE). Neither of these memberships are required and it is not a fool proof guarantee – but it is the best there is in the UK
There’s a lot more to yacht surveying than this. But this is all the time we had in Paul’s lecture. His book apparently covers much more in excruciating detail.

The Cruising Association has this to say about Paul’s Surveying Yachts and Small Craft: ‘…the book seeks to appeal to boat owners either actual or prospective… a good prior knowledge of FRP boats, their construction and equipment is assumed by the author… this book is an excellent tool.’ 

I’ve got a long list of books on surveying for the Can Opener to read this year. Another surveyor-guy might have different tips and ideas. We want to know it all.

Any problem that comes with the boat we buy becomes our problem. For a long time. Even a short time will feel like a long time if it’s a big problem. And sometimes big problems can be life-threatening.

We don’t want to be surprised by a lemon. Our lives are worth rubies.

Are there any USA (or Canada or Oz…) equivalents to the YDSA and BMSE found in Europe? 

What has your experience been with surveyors who are registered members with this/these organisation/s?

–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener)
Cruising Lectures

The Wrong Seacocks Can Sink Your Boat

 

Cruising Association Lecture Notes:  
The Wrong Seacocks Can Sink Your Boat 

Another great lecture at the Cruising Association earlier this week, this time on Surveying Yachts and Small Craft with Paul Stevens, yacht surveyor, lecturer and author. Paul currently teaches at the International Boat Building Training College in Lowestoft, UK. 

Did we like him? Yup. He was passionate about his topic and it’s clear he knows his stuff. He cares about getting it right and keeping people alive on yachts that are safe. 

The first half* of Paul’s lecture covered a serious issue he has helped to build awareness for recently: the use of brass skin fittings below the waterline… in salt water-sailed yachts! 

What’s wrong with that? Apparently everything. 

So What’s Wrong With Brass Fittings? 
Brass seacocks in saltwater can corrode to failure in 5 years… or less! 

Dezincification
Brass fittings in fresh water – okay. But in salt water, brass (an alloy of copper and zinc) corrodes to failure. It’s called dezincification. If there is any current in the water (as often happens in a marina) this can happen in less than a year. 

What drives this? 
Well, it costs about a quarter of the price to make a fitting out of brass...

Is this new knowledge? 
Nope. Apparently the downside of using brass in this way has been known for about 90 years or more. 
Why did this happen? 
The new (since 1998) European Community’s Recreational Craft Directive (RCD) ISO Standard 9093-1 was rewritten to require only that fittings should be corrosion resistant for 5 years. (Though who knows why they were rewritten this way??…) 
Huh? Not required to last the life of the boat, you say? 
Nope. Not under the current EU regs. 
And if they corrode through and fail beneath the waterline my whole boat will sink?? 
Uh-huh. Pretty fast too. 

Is there a disaster waiting to happen under my waterline? 
Yacht owners need to prove to themselves that their fittings are NOT brass. 

There is currently no requirement in the EU to mark on packaging what components are made of. And the packaging of valves with and without brass are nearly identical. Even many chandleries are unaware of the difference between them due to this lack of clarity. Big problem. 

How to check 
Got written documentation of what your fittings are made of? Old packages? Documentation from the manufacturer of your boat? Can you write the manufacturer and get this in writing?  If you are buying a new boat, the builder should definitely be willing to write this down… 

You can also hammer-tap test every fitting that pierces the hull below the waterline. Even if the fittings were all put in at the same time and some of those other fittings have tested okay. Fittings may have been subsequently replaced with brass. Or some brass fittings may have gotten mixed in when the boat was first built due the unclear and very similar packaging. 

Brass corrosion shows as a grey pinkish putty colour. It showed up as splodges on the outside of valves and especially in the threads of valves that Paul had to show us. Does the fitting collapse when you hammer-tap it (not a guaranteed test) or break off? Not a good sign. 

If you can’t prove to yourself that all your fittings are not brass, then be safe. Replace them all. 

Prevention is far cheaper than calamity. 

The Right Stuff: Bronze and DZR 
We should be using bronze! Or products that are clearly labelled/confirmed as dezincified resistant brass (DZR). Plastic is a possible alternative, but shouldn’t be installed around heat sources – say in or near the engine box. 

How to be sure you’re getting bronze or DZR 
If you don’t have documented proof that it’s not brass – better to be safe and replace them all. 

How do you ensure this? Here are some ways: 

  • If the package states clearly that the product is bronze or DZR, then okay. If it does not mention what material it’s made of… then it’s brass.
  • If the valve shows the ‘CR’ symbol on it when you turn it over, then it’s DZR. That’s good. But you can’t necessarily see this when it’s in the package.
  • Another clue – bronze fittings cost 3 to 4 times more than brass ones.
  • Blake seacocks now use DZR only.
  • ISIS make a range of DZR ball valves.
  • New Zealand make the True Plastic Range by Lee Sanitation. Also okay.
  • ASAP Supplies will supply a list of what things they sell are made of.

Here’s a link to Paul’s site and articles on seacock safety and technical metals info. Here’s info on Essential Seacock Checks. 

After Paul’s talk it looked like the vast majority of attendees would be down at their boat this weekend, checking for documentation and hammer-tap testing away to ensure the integrity of their fittings and the safety of their yachts. 

Do you know what your seacocks are made of? 
Does this situation exist in the US too? 

–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener) 

* The second half of Paul’s lecture covered general surveying – tips on things to watch for and check before you buy a new boat (new to you) or during your yearly review of your current boat.  Lecture notes on this coming soon in my upcoming post Cruising Association Lecture Notes: Tips on Yacht Surveying. 

Cruising Lectures 
Next: Why Yacht Surveys Save Money
Previously: Going to a Lecture On: How To Survey A Boat

Going to a Lecture On: How To Survey A Boat

Not getting a good yacht survey can cost you a bundle

 We’re off (Where’s my sceptre and cape? The wiley Can Opener has hidden them!)  to a lecture tonight on how to survey a boat before you buy it. 

It’s at the Cruising Association down at Limehouse Marina. 
We’ll learn how to conduct a thorough inspection of a yacht or small craft. Or at least whatever we can learn in a two hour lecture. (Then we’ll come home and keep reading/snoozing on Don Casey’s Sailboat Maintenance Manual!)
We need to know what to look for when we are narrowing down options to the last one or two picks.

And since small boat surveying is entirely unregulated, it’s a fine idea to know about as much as about it as we possibly can and not rely totally on the surveyor we bring in for the final pre-buy inspection of the yacht-of-our-dreams

We might actually find the best surveyor ever. We might not. If you don’t know much about surveying yourself, it’s hard to tell.

Even if we do find the best surveyor on earth, they’re only human and could miss something. It’s our pocketbook on the line and us that will be living with any flaws that get missed. We need to know about surveying too.

I’m packing the Can Opener’s rucksack full of notebooks, highlighters, pens and smoked oysters. He’ll be taking copious notes for me at the lecture… and directing a constant stream of mollusks toward me to ensure the delicate balance of my electrolytes.

All in all he’s a good First Mate. His recent performance has been quite satisfactory. (If he just relinquishes my cape,) I’ll consider giving him a gold star. 

–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener) 
Cruising Lecture Notes

Capable Cruiser – Reviewed

links below at bottom of post

 

Book the Captain just finished snoozing on: Capable Cruiser

Previously snoozed on: Cost Conscious Cruiser – and loved it
Okay. I love the Pardeys, I’m a big fan. I zipped right through another book in this ‘series’ called Cost Conscious Cruiser. I slept on the cover for a mere 3 afternoon naps and the contents filtered right up into my brain, no problemo.

Their philosophy of simplicity and downsizing spoke to my furry heart. It had large sections that could be described as ‘introduction to lifestyle’ themed. So often not so tough to get through.

CapableCruiser is dense – and that’s good
Have to admit though that I pushed myself at times to get through Capable Cruiser. It’s focus leans more towards seamanship, anchoring and repairs. All of it critical info to know, but denser to absorb.

How to buy a yacht, medical issues, life at sea, getting along with crew are discussed too (these I could get through in a single night’s delightful beauty rest).

While I will probably not buy a boat with a bowsprit, absorbing Larry’s detailed descriptions of the pros and cons and how to add one to your yacht (if you decide to) is important to get through at least once. Ditto the section on tenders, steering failures and repairs at sea.

Conclusion
So I got through it and am glad I did. A good add to the sea library.

I’m handing it over to the Can Opener as required reading and I’ll probably snooze on Capable Cruiser again some time next year.


Got a good recommendation for the sea library?
What books are a must for the cruising life?



–Captain Cat

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Book Reviews
Next: Self Sufficient Sailor  
Previously: Cost Conscious Cruiser

In the US

In the UK