Cruising in Oceania

Waterfalls at Vanuatu
The last Spring lecture at Limehouse last night… Sigh. 
Henry and Kiki Capleton presented some highlights from their travels through Oceania: notes on the Palmerston Atoll, the Hobart ‘Round Tasmania’ Rally and some islands around Vanuatu.
A inspiring presentation with spectacular photography. We left knowing even more powerfully why sailing to distant locations is so unique. 
It’s not just about loving sailing and being on the water. It’s that there are some places you just can’t get to without your own boat.
And that makes the experiences once you are there that much more incredible. Few people get to see such untouched beauty. Their experiences and photos really drove that home.
How they got sailing
  • had only done 1300nm on passages
  • had passed RYA Coastal and Day Skipper courses
  • bought a Contest 44, their first boat
  • did a few shakedowns cruises from New England to Bermuda with experienced friends on their boat
  • and off they went…
How they got to the Pacific
  • via the Panama Canal
  • used one of the cheaper agents, cost $900 ($600 to the agent and $300 to the authorities)
  • had to wait 9 days to get a place to get through
  • each boat needs 4 ‘line handlers’
  • usual custom is to practice by helping someone else go through
  • then you return to your boat when your ‘place’ comes up and take on two newbies who in turn are practicing to take their own boat through later…
Palmerston Atoll 

  • only true atoll in the Cook’s group
  • population: about 90 – all descended from an English ship’s carpenter who settled there in Victorian times with his 3 Polynesian wives
  • they collect rainwater, and fish and grow copra both of which they trade
  • when you arrive:
    • you send ahead a VHF message
    • then you are met by one of the family in a boat who will show you your mooring spot
    • they invite you for dinner and maybe some entertainment (singing, dancing) the next night
  • in return, visitors exchange whatever skills they have (carpentry, engineering, medical etc) or give supplies
Tasmania
  • they joined the Hobart Rally
  • spectacular highlights:
    • MacQuarie Harbour
    • Strahan
    • Port Davey
    • Bathurst Harbour
    • D’Entrecasteaux Channel
    • Wineglass Bay!

Islands around Vanuatu

  • waterfall bays
  • exchanged t-shirts for fresh fruit and vegetables
  • t-shirts are also appreciated as thank you gifts
  • met many chiefs
  • were invited to attend church
  • attended much dancing which involved a ‘thumping’ style in grass skirts with rattles tied around the ankles
  • saw water music where women stood waist high in water and slapped it to make different tones and so create the music – wow!
I would use the word ‘moving’ to describe this presentation. We certainly left totally psyched to notch it up and throw ourselves back into the cruising studies, prep and downsizing with renewed vigor. 

Today I attack the biggest pile (huge) of the Can Opener’s papers to organise and file. Haiiiiiiiii-yaah!



–Captain Cat

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Piracy – The Chandlers’ Somalia Excursion

Last Wednesday at Limehouse, Paul and Rachel Chandler presented a narrative of their experience of being captured by pirates near the Seychelles and held hostage for 388 days. They refer to this dryly as their ‘Somalia Excursion’.

Paul, a civil engineer, and his wife Rachel, an economist, decided to retire early and go cruising in 2005. By the end of 2007, they had done enough shakedown cruises in the Med and headed for the Red Sea.  

After sailing around the Indian Ocean, they headed back towards Africa and in October 2009… the Seychelles.

What was unusual about the Chandlers’ capture at the time is that 

  • it happened 600+miles offshore and
  • normally pirates don’t target small yachts. Cargo ships are more lucrative targets.

Organisation of Pirates
Previously pirates had not been seen so far offshore (usually they were limited by the amount of food and ammo their tiny boats can carry.) These pirates were able to overcome these limits by using an (often captured) ‘mother ship’ to launch smaller boats from to look for targets.

Pirates were:

  • heavily armed – with AK47’s, grenades, etc
  • in boats packed with food, gas and people – little room, little shelter
  • with very basic means of communication – had handheld GPS, no radar, no satellite phone…

And in general, pirates are:

  • desperate 
  • with a short expected lifespan
  • usually not experienced and are on their first (and only) mission. Most that go out do not succeed and do not come back alive. The goal/dream is to do one mission and make enough money to set them up for life.

The Chandlers’ pirates were no exception.


When the Chandlers’ were taken to Somalia where they were held for 382 days

  • they were guarded by 5 to 20 men at all times who carried machine guns
  • they were fed 3 times a day and given water, but ultimately experienced malnutrition as it was all carbs and goat liver
  • moved repeatedly
  • sometimes separated
  • housed in tents and mud huts
  • not beaten, except once when they tried to refuse to be separated
Government positions on negotiating with pirates:
  • France & USA: have made active attempts to rescue their citizens taken hostage with varying success rates
  • Italy: flatly refuses to negotiate with pirates for hostage release (do not pay ransoms). They further freeze the accounts of hostages so that their family cannot pay ransoms either.
  • UK: flatly refuses to negotiate with pirates for hostage release (do not pay ransoms).
  • The Chandlers are British. The only rescue attempts made were by their family who ultimately negotiated and paid £600,000 for their release. Also a Somali-born London taxi driver was also involved in helping ensure their release. 
  • (The UK Foreign Office claimed they were ‘doing everything within their power to effect their safe release’. According to the Chandlers, there’s no clear insight on what actual action this might have been, if any.)

 Lessons learned

  • First 6 days (or so?) after capture are critical – news blackout recommended (while negotiations/ rescue attempts made).
    • Pirates want to ensure publicity and world awareness to drive up ‘the value’ of the hostages. 
    • (Unfortunately, the Chandlers’ family were not given this advice when the Foreign Office spoke to them.)
  • Have an EPIRB or a way to make distress signals. 
    • Paul did manage to set off their EPIRB. It was only on for 30 minutes (until the pirates found it.) 
    • However, this did get the message out that they were in distress and their family were informed. 
  • Carrying guns or grenades is not going to help you out against what the pirates are carrying. And there’s an excellent chance that it will aggravate/escalate the situation. 
  •  If you are in business, a foreign aid worker, journalist or perhaps a celebrity you would have access to insurance to pay ransoms and other support.  
    • This is helpful once you are captured – but also can serve to make you a target in the first place. 
    • The Chandlers’ did not have insurance or backing and the pirates refused to believe that a rich country like the UK wouldn’t pay for them. 
    • Therefore they continued to hold them hostage waiting for ‘the big prize’ money to arrive. 
  • It may be a helpful strategy for hostages to make a connection/ relationship with the pirates 
    • so they will treat them better. 
    • This is not realistic/feasible for women hostages due to the status of women in countries that pirates come from.

Controversy

  • The Chandlers say they had no idea of the pirate risk in the area. 
    • They say they had researched this online and talked to yachts that had recently come through the area. 
    • They note that while in undeveloped areas of the world it is difficult to get online to get up-to-date info.
    • They did most of their research while on trips to the UK, so research was not done at exactly the time they were leaving to sail the Seychelles.
    • They say no one checking them out of the country (the Victoria Coastguard at the Port of Victoria) as they left mentioned anything about pirate risk.  
  • Media reports and yacht forums cast doubt on whether they really could not have known about the risks.
  • The UK Foreign Office confirms their site had an online warning of pirates in the Northwest Seychelles at the time.


Final Outcome

  • The Chandlers’ were released unharmed after 388 days. 
  • They did/do not seem to have long term mental or physical problems as a result of their experience.
  • Their family paid about £600,000 in ransom.
  • They are rebuilding their boat. It was recovered by an Royal Fleet Auxiliary ship – a civilian-manned fleet owned by the British Ministry of Defence – and brought to Portland UK for them.
  • They wrote a book about their experience.
  • They are going sailing again. This time to Brazil.

Conclusion 

Prevention is the best answer
Find recent reliable knowledge on where pirates have been reported is your best planning preparation. Then avoid these areas completely.
 

  • The Can Opener and I will check every site and other info sources we can find before we go anywhere, to make sure of the areas we are sailing in. 
  • We will avoid anything with even a hint of warnings against it. It’s just not worth it. There are too many beautiful areas to explore where the odds are so much better.
  • There must be more detailed info on how to survive a hostage taking. This research is on our ongoing ‘research to do’ list. 
  • It would be tempting just to blame the Chandlers – but it’s also true that sometimes sh*t happens no matter how much you prepare.  
  • Most importantly, prevention is better than cure.

  • Here the link to the noonsite.com pages with piracy info on it.

Definitely a lot to think about and digest here. Everything has good and bad sides. Piracy is an extremely big ‘down’ side. 

It’s a serious topic to weigh/research/prepare/inform oneself about that sits on the other side of the beauty and dreams of paradise. 

Paradise is worth it. But best be prepared.

–Captain Cat

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Cruising Lectures 
Previously: La Dolce Vita

La Dolce Vita

Just back from another lecture at Limehouse… La Dolce Vita: Cruising the Islands of the Central Mediterranean, presented by Kath Stott. 

About 10 years ago, Kath and her husband joined and enjoyed a great flotilla vacation with Neilson Holidays. They were so taken with the experience that when they (shortly thereafter) retired, they sold their house and with the proceeds bought a flat… and a Hallberg-Rassy 43. 

This was their first boat and they have been sailing ever since.

Along with some stellar photos, Kath presented an overview of their experience and learnings from a three-month exploration of Corsica and the Italian Islands of Elba, Sardinia, and Sicily…


Highlights

  • Islio Giglio and exporing the interior of Isola d’Elba (the island where Napolean was exiled)
  • Girolata and Bonifacio
  • La Maddelina Archipelago
  • Sardinia: Santa Maria Navarese
  • Sicily: Castellsmmave del Golfo
  • motorbikes to Segesta
  • Cefalu with excited shouting greeters
  • The Aeolian Islands
  • Strait of Messina – with swordfish harpooning ships
  • buying pizza – sold by the metre (1 metre = 1.0936133 yards)!

Pluses 

  • super value wine at 2 for 1.5 litres ($2.60 for 1.32 quarts)!
  • fresh food at farmers’ markets, great cuisine
  • easy to provision
  • lots of anchorages – for free!
  • scenery
  • lots of historical sites
  • challenging sailing

Minuses

  • high season costs – so plan ahead to avoid expensive areas
  • macho men who shout at docks
  • a lot of prices are not set – so you have to negotiate… in Italian

Tips 

Sail Training 

  • Kath noted the offshore training course they took with John and Amanda Neal at Mahina was their best training investment to date.
  • Taking a 1 day course on how to park your boat – over and over and over again – is also great tuition spent.

Touring in Italy… 

  • A ‘marina’ in Italian just means a place to rest by the sea side – it could just be a good place for anchoring.
  • Avoid Naples and the west Italian coast as it is very expensive, especially during high season. 
  • Unlike Greece not much English is spoken, so it is helpful to learn some Italian if you can.

Anchoring is the way to go!

  • 50 nights at anchor, 4 at mooring buoys (total cost €40 /$52 – so mostly free! But sometimes there are anchor charges.)
  • 20 nights at marinas (total cost 680 /$884) 

 
Sailing in general… and Fishing

  • A sports whistle is a good way to get other boats’ attention (for example if one boat is dragging down on another).
  • Pour a little gin into the gills of caught fish before you kill them – it’s a sedative and ‘works a treat’.


Our Conclusion?

We actually didn’t need any persuading to check out Italy… but this was a fact-filled and very useful lecture. 

We are definitely destination dreamin’ of Corsica and the Italian Islands!

Ever cruised in Corsica, or the Italian Islands of Elba, Sardinia or Sicily?

Which islands did you visit?
What do you recommend as must-sees and don’t-forgets?

–Captain Cat


(transcribed by the Can Opener) 

Cruising Lectures