Crossing The Ionian Sea – Flotilla

Vos et ipsam civitatem benedicimus (We bless you and your city)  – at the gates of the harbour at Messina

At 2pm sharp (right after my traditional 2nd afternoon catnap), all four yachts in our new flotilla lined up and headed past the harbour gates. We turned right, then followed the Straits of Messina south to the Ionian Sea.

A 40 foot catamaran travels faster than a 35 foot monohull in general, so staying within sight of the others by evening soon became a challenge. 

We could see the pinpricks of their mast lights against the dark sky. From time to time, the Can Opener would chat with Sottos on the VHF. 

While the winds always stayed between 20 and 30 knots on this leg of the journey, the memory of the gale was still fresh in our minds. Sometimes wondering what will happen next can be as nearly as tiring as actually facing challenging weather conditions. 

It was good to know that friends were nearby.

It took us nearly two days to cross the Ionian – we arrived Patras in the middle morning of the second day. 

We had finally reached Greece!

–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Making Friends In Messina

After our exciting day getting to Milazzo on the ‘edge of the cyclone’,… it struck me that it would be wise to plan to cross the Ionian Sea in company. 

Should wild Force 9+ winds strike again, knowing other boats were nearby and could respond quickly in the event of need would be a comfort – and a good safety precaution for crews on all boats included. 

Messina is the jumping off point for heading across the Ionian to Greece, so of course I immediately set about scouring the marina for new friends who were heading the same direction.

I did not have to scour far – the first boat I inquired of was indeed heading our way, already had a flotilla of 3 boats set up and were professional sailors delivering new yachts for a charter company in Greece. In fact, the first old salt I spoke to was the founder and owner of said business.

Purrfect! And on top of this good news, he had a hundred stories to tell and was boisterous good fun. Sottos and I bonded immediately.

My new best buddy trotted round to the catamaran with me to meet our crew. We all hatched an enthusiastic plan for pizza that evening and an afternoon start for tomorrow when the expected weather window is due to pass through.

No matter where you cruise, new friends abound. 

The Can Opener and I are looking forward to joining Sottos’ flotilla, staying in touch by sight and by VHF over the next two days – and of course, exchanging more views on philosophy, continuing as we had already begun over today’s rather raucous and jovial afternoon tea…

–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Churches Of Messina

View over Messina harbour

In Messina, we were once again followed by heavy weather and building swell. 

Since Trapani, we have developed a pattern of (trying to) put in the miles each day, pulling into a marina at night and then getting up the next morning to do it all over again without much chance to see the places we are staying at.

But this morning in Messina, we were waiting for a weather window. This gave the Can Opener and I some time to do a little sightseeing again.

It’s a city full of scrolling architecture and majestic churches and cathedrals…

… and a temple.

When we come back to Milazzo, we’re definitely going to swing by Messina as well because there’s so much more here…

… to see…

…and to explore.

–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Storming Milazzo

Calm harbour at Milazzo the morning after the storm

A wild storm

It had to happen sooner or later. And yesterday it happened. We got caught in a storm. Not just a little one. But a great big blow-the-dog-off-the-chain kind of Force 9 kind of storm (40+ gusting to 50 knots). 

The forecast had predicted moderate winds. And apparently most of the region did get just that. Somehow, however, that was not the case where we were. Somehow, the Sicilian news that night would report that we had been on the ‘edge of a cyclone’…

Catamarans provide a lot of living space and have many advantages I’m sure. But they do not track well in swell at all. 

As the wind came up yesterday, it funneled towards us through the Straits of Messina. This provided an uninterrupted, very lengthy stretch for the swell to build unbroken – to 12 to 15 feet high with the waves very close together. 

So close that the length of the catamaran put its pontoons regularly on both the wave ahead and the wave behind at the same time, without a stretch to level out in. This is uncomfortable and put the boat at risk for ‘fish-tailing’ like a car on ice. Very spin-ny. Not a relaxing day.

Had we been in a monohull, we could have cut through the waves on the diagonal and had a whole different experience. But with a cat, you can’t cut diagonally or you risk putting the pontoons one on either side of a (15 foot) wave – which puts the boat at risk for flipping. Not a good result. In a catamaran, if you capsize, there is no recovery.

So we ran before the swell, keeping the pontoons lined up ninety degrees to the waves – taking us directly away from where we wanted to go…

Turning around was not possible for ages because that would have entailed lying parallel to the waves for a moment – broadside – again putting the cat at risk for being flipped.

But – Lo! In the distance we saw a freighter parked downwind – yes parked – waiting to enter the Straits of Messina. 

A freighter so big that it created a wind shadow on its leeward side. A wind shadow with dramatically reduced waves. Even in this blow.

So we aimed for the wind shadow, cuddled in, and were able to turn around 180 degrees to head back upwind. 


The good news was that now at least we were heading in the direction we wanted. The bad news was that instead of surfing away down the backs of waves, we were now pounding (pontoons again lined up ninety degrees again) into the oncoming waves. 

But we persevered and well after darkness fell, we arrived at the marina at Milazzo. Whew.

We sailed (well, drove) from 10am till after dark and in the end only made 37 miles towards our ultimate destination. We had been averaging about 120+ nautical miles per day previously.


I hadn’t been so glad to touch land since the first time I spied Pussy Galore lounging on the binnacle of the yacht next door back at the marina at home. 

Actually, I was even happier to put the paws back on land this time…

Exit from Milazzo the next morning…

Last view: Castello di Milazzo

Milazzo looked beautiful, but after a well-deserved sleep and some more provisioning, we were back on the water the next morning and pressing on. 

We would have liked to explore the town. Milazzo‘s definitely on the Can Opener’s and my list of places to revisit. 

We’ll be back.

–Captain Cat

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

San Nicola L’Arena

In San Nicola L’Arena, a tower built in 1397 watches over its tiny harbour.

Pressing on to San Nicola L’Arena

Having spent nearly 4 days in Trapani waiting for the winds to decrease, we were glad to make some distance and to finally reach Palermo. 

But our overarching goal was to get the catamaran to Greece within 3 weeks. And we were now beginning to feel pressed for time. 

So in the evening, at a tasty restaurant perched in a cobbled road twisting away from a Palermo cathedral (the Can Opener ordered the Gaddafi pizza – very spicy), we decided to allocate just half of the next day to activities in Palermo – for a bit of sightseeing, internet and admin as the crew needed. 

And then to press on to charming San Nicola L’Arena…

–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

North to Palermo

North round the coast of Sicily to Palermo!

Local advice from our marina manager (owned by the ebullient and playful Vento, dog of wind) told us that the Sirocco can – and is expected to – blow uninterrupted for at least a month or so more. Vento concurred. And it’s strongest along the south coast of Sicily where we had been planning to continue our route. 

A scenic Trapani fishing harbour

It looked like we would be waiting it out in Trapani for quite some time (not such a terrible fate!)…

Heading north over the top of Sicily, however, the marina manager told us, the winds should be lighter – and today they did look more promising…

Another small harbour in Trapani

After rechecking the marine radio forecast and comparing it to our favourite site, windfinder.com, we revised the route plan.

So it was north, over the top of Sicily, to Palermo!

Coast of Sicily

Winds were 20 knots as we set out and built steadily throughout the day. By the time we reached Palermo in the evening it was 30 knots gusting to 35.

The winds were probably stronger on the southern route round Sicily. The north route to Palermo, however, was still demanding and ensured deep sleeps for all when we finally reached our evening’s destination.

–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Food Wonderful Food – in Trapani

Provisions Renewed

There are few things more critical to keeping up crew morale than food. Quite important for Captain morale too. This is a point that I have gently and not infrequently intoned upon strategically within the Can Opener’s hearing. 

Just thinking about the next meal the Can Opener will rustle up lifts my spirits.

All-important garlic

In Trapani – when the stores were open – abundance overflowed. Gleaming tomatoes, snappy lettuce, onions, cheeses, dates, olives, turgid fruits and captivating legumes I could not name.    And garlic, my beloved, in copious quantities, everywhere…

Cheeses, sausages, olives in oil and spices, pickled onions, pistachios, more cheese…

I ordered the First Mate to load up in town on every single thing I had carefully annotated and cross-indexed on the provisioning list until his backpack seams audibly complained.
 
When the storm breaks, allowing us to continue our voyage, we will be ready…

–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Waiting Out The Storm

Every morning we wake up to 40 or more knot winds – and it’s unclear when this will abate. 

Our decks appear dull red till we clean them each day. They’re covered in the dark orange sand blown in from the Arabian and Sahara desserts  – the Sirocco has arrived.

We’ve enjoyed our few days in Trapani, but are now eager to get moving again. 

We hope for a better forecast for tomorrow… and we hope for a window in the winds…

–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Trapani By Day

The next morning while the Sirocco winds howled, we found the preceding evening’s religious procession still in full swing. Vendors sold pinwheels, tootle horns and Spiderman dolls to help celebrate the event.

 

About midday, the ancient religious floats reached their final destination in a church. They’ll be displayed here for the rest of the day before being returned to storage until next year.

 

And also by about midday, we had admired most of the architecture in Trapani, some buildings of which were from the 15th century…

It was a full schedule: …walking, exploring, and in late afternoon, the mechanic will arrive to look at the port engine and nurse it back to bouncing health. 

Between that and this evening’s gala dinner, I’ll feast on second lunch and squeeze in a catnap or two…

–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Trapani By Night

During our hunt for the best pizza place in Trapani, we stopped to admire a night procession of 13 beautifully decorated religious floats. 

They were carried on the shoulders of groups of devotees and paraded around the town, accompanied by tunes played by the marching bands that interspersed them. 

Spectacular!

After dinner, we wandered up to the top of the main street of Trapani, then turned…

…and slowly sloshing from side to side full of the best pizza ever, wended our weary way back down the main street to our catamaran for a delightful – and uninterrupted – night’s sleep.

–Captain Cat

 (transcribed by the Can Opener)