Bora Bora – Destination Dreamin’

Jon Boon, speaking at the Cruising Association a few weeks ago, described his recent adventures in the Pacific Islands, most notably in Bora Bora. (Yes, the Can Opener has been tardy in writing up our lecture notes…   

Oy Furrball! I’ve spent the last two weeks jigsawing all those ripped up lecture note bits back together that you shredded in some wild-abandon pretend-mouse chase-game you had on your cushion. You should be praising my persistence!  

You should not be leaving your lecture notes on my cushion, my friend… However, your point regarding persistence bears some merit. I will consider it… later.)


I was mightily impressed with Jon’s lecture, in particular his descriptions of the fish – even sharks – that might be caught there. I can taste the mahi mahi now!


How Jon got there
He did a deal with Sun Sail charter company at the Southampton Boat Show and came away with a big smile on his face. Don’t accept the first offer, says Jon. Bargain with ’em.

Jon rounded up enough family and friends (7 people in total on a Jeanneau 34) which was enough to make the charter cost quite reasonable.

 
How much was it?
  • Flight from UK via LA to Pacific Islands: £1329/person
  • Charter cost for 14 days: £467/person  
  • Plus food.
  • (This contrasts with the cost of the overwater bungalows (like the ones in the picture above) that cost £9000/week/person)
They carried 14 lbs of food (dry goods) each in their luggage to keep costs down. 

The supermarkets on the islands are well stocked with tasty treats as there are still lots of French expats there left over from the nuclear testing, he said. You can even buy a whole sheep in the freezer if you need one. 

But the food is very expensive… and it’s imported anyway. Might as well import it yourself.

Jon also joined the Cruising Association which gave him free access to pilot books and information… but no map. The CA is quite good for maps in Europe and nearby areas, but they are less well-stocked for regions on the other side of the earth.


Notes on the weather and conditions
  • Nov – Apr is rainy season
  • prevailing easterly wind of 15-20kn – associated with choppy conditions
  • west-going equatorial current of 1kn
  • 18 inch tides at Springs

  • you can anchor in 10-20ft of water
  • line of sight navigation between islands – easy day sails
  • the islands are ringed by reefs and there are no reef markers so it makes navigation challenging
  • channel markers are coloured by Region A standards   

Great Reasons to visit Bora Bora
  • clear water
  • unique and friendly culture
  • amazing sunsets!
  • dolphins!
  • horse riding tours along the beach
  • beautiful temples (Fare) to see
  • glorious forests to explore – you can follow rivers in your dinghy deep into them
  • …aaaaaaaand the famous Bernard Moitessier spent ages in the Pacific Islands and Bora Bora. Wrote some pretty good books about his adventures there too.


We are persuaded! Bora Bora’s on our list…


–Captain Cat 

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Cruising in Oceania

Waterfalls at Vanuatu
The last Spring lecture at Limehouse last night… Sigh. 
Henry and Kiki Capleton presented some highlights from their travels through Oceania: notes on the Palmerston Atoll, the Hobart ‘Round Tasmania’ Rally and some islands around Vanuatu.
A inspiring presentation with spectacular photography. We left knowing even more powerfully why sailing to distant locations is so unique. 
It’s not just about loving sailing and being on the water. It’s that there are some places you just can’t get to without your own boat.
And that makes the experiences once you are there that much more incredible. Few people get to see such untouched beauty. Their experiences and photos really drove that home.
How they got sailing
  • had only done 1300nm on passages
  • had passed RYA Coastal and Day Skipper courses
  • bought a Contest 44, their first boat
  • did a few shakedowns cruises from New England to Bermuda with experienced friends on their boat
  • and off they went…
How they got to the Pacific
  • via the Panama Canal
  • used one of the cheaper agents, cost $900 ($600 to the agent and $300 to the authorities)
  • had to wait 9 days to get a place to get through
  • each boat needs 4 ‘line handlers’
  • usual custom is to practice by helping someone else go through
  • then you return to your boat when your ‘place’ comes up and take on two newbies who in turn are practicing to take their own boat through later…
Palmerston Atoll 

  • only true atoll in the Cook’s group
  • population: about 90 – all descended from an English ship’s carpenter who settled there in Victorian times with his 3 Polynesian wives
  • they collect rainwater, and fish and grow copra both of which they trade
  • when you arrive:
    • you send ahead a VHF message
    • then you are met by one of the family in a boat who will show you your mooring spot
    • they invite you for dinner and maybe some entertainment (singing, dancing) the next night
  • in return, visitors exchange whatever skills they have (carpentry, engineering, medical etc) or give supplies
Tasmania
  • they joined the Hobart Rally
  • spectacular highlights:
    • MacQuarie Harbour
    • Strahan
    • Port Davey
    • Bathurst Harbour
    • D’Entrecasteaux Channel
    • Wineglass Bay!

Islands around Vanuatu

  • waterfall bays
  • exchanged t-shirts for fresh fruit and vegetables
  • t-shirts are also appreciated as thank you gifts
  • met many chiefs
  • were invited to attend church
  • attended much dancing which involved a ‘thumping’ style in grass skirts with rattles tied around the ankles
  • saw water music where women stood waist high in water and slapped it to make different tones and so create the music – wow!
I would use the word ‘moving’ to describe this presentation. We certainly left totally psyched to notch it up and throw ourselves back into the cruising studies, prep and downsizing with renewed vigor. 

Today I attack the biggest pile (huge) of the Can Opener’s papers to organise and file. Haiiiiiiiii-yaah!



–Captain Cat

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Study Sailing in French… and Spanish?

Big load of books (ordered last week) came through the mail slot yesterday! I am celebrating first off with a giant snooze on Tania Aebi’s Maiden Voyage. It looks great!

Aaaaaaaannnd… I just ordered:
  • Mettre les voiles : Le manuel pour choisir son bateau, naviguer, vivre à bord, par Antoine 

I figure if the Can Opener’s upgrading his French for cruising in the Pacific Islands, why not kill two birds with one stone (yum) and get a ‘How to Cruise’ text in French to study with?

Come to think of it… the Can Opener’s just a beginner at Spanish. I bet I can find some kind of beginner ‘learn to sail’ book that covers parts of the boat and basic terminology in Spanish. 

Maybe something put out by the Spanish yachting association or on amazon.es. Hmm. Off to research…

–Captain Cat

(transcribed by the Can Opener)

Can Opener: Okay – I see the logic and all… but are you ever going to include me in your planning?

Captain Cat (tail lashing): Why would I do that?

A Moment to Relax and Dream

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Great Sailing Destinations
 

Mediterranean
Canaries
Caribbean

South America
Pacific Islands
 

 

What other must-see places are on your list?

      

–Captain Cat

(transcribed by the Can Opener)      
 
Destination Dreamin’
Next up: A Mediterranean Moment